Book Reviews

Fiber Femmes Book Reviews

The Handbook of Needlework, Decorative and Ornamental, Including Crochet, Knitting and Netting

by Miss Lambert, 1846

Piper Publishing, publisher 2003

From the foreword: "Of the dozens of needlework books published in the

United States in the antebellum period, Frances S. Lambert's books were the

most popular. ... This edition is Miss Lambert's most complete, with the

greatest number of patterns provided for knitting and crochet, along with

advice and directions for netting, beadwork and embroidery, including the

popular Berlin work."

This is not only an informative book, packed with patterns for various types

of needlework, it's also a look into the "History of the Art". Needlework

over the course of time is addressed, from Moses and the Egyptians to the

Greeks and Romans and up to the day of Miss Lambert. Homer reported a custom among Grecian women "they could not accept a second husband until they had worked the grave-clothes of their deceased lords, or of his next of kin". He tells of Penelope who worked a shroud for Laertes, the father of Ulysses, her husband, when she feared Ulysses had been lost at sea.

The book, almost 500 pages, abounds with historical information before Miss Lambert launches into chapters devoted to tapestry, materials employed for

needlework, wool, silk, gold and silver, beads, crepe, canvas, drawing

designs, patterns and much more. Anyone interested in SCA (Society for

Creative Anachronism, Inc.), War Between the States period and the "work of

women's hands" will find this a useful and fascinating book and one to add

to their personal library.

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The Art of Knitting 1892

Facsimile Reproduction of the Original Edition from The Butterick Publishing Company

Piper Publishing, publisher 2003

Another fascinating reprint starting with explanation of knitting terms from

Susan J. Jerome, Textile and Clothing Historian. Detailed drawings show

knitting from the casting on of stitches to the making of a pattern. The Art

of Knitting shows pattern stitches popular, one assumes, at the time of

original publication and almost fifty pages are devoted to edgings suitable

for petticoats, under shirts, kilted edgings, pillow cases and more.

The second section gives "general rules for knitting mittens, socks and

stockings". The reader is shown, step by step, how to construct mittens,

socks and stockings and that foundation knowledge forms the basis for

understanding the patterns to follow.

Chenille is used to knit a "ladies' knitted chenille hood" and is

reminiscent of the wigs worn by the English in their House of Lords. Other

patterns include a shoulder cape, knitted vest, beautiful shawls,

fascinators, long and short drawers, petticoats, three cornered shawl

(simply beautiful!), skirt, slippers and even a "knee cap cover". Those

suffering from joint pain would find the "knee cap cover" a welcome addition

to their wardrobe.

Gentlemen aren't forgotten. Their section includes a foot-ball sweater,

hunting cap that looks rather like a balaclava, suspenders, tie, belt,

mittens, driving or shooting gloves.

Home knitted patterns include counterpanes, spreads, borders, doilies, rugs

and table mats. Articles for children end the book and the knitted shirts

could be used for christening gowns today. The infant's napkin cover, when

made out of wool, would serve as useful protection against leaks and the

cover for baby's bottle would look good on a water bottle today. Knitted

patterns for a harlequin doll, knitted rein and whip (why oh WHY does this

make me think of Knitty? <evil grin>), a "Sambo" doll, a couple of knitted

balls and a soldier doll round out the toy section.

If that's not enough, you could knit a twine-ball case or purse, towel or

bath mitten. They even have a pattern for a night-dress case; anyone

remember those from the 1950's? Some of the patterns are amusing, such as

the coffee strainer or the cloth for polishing floors.

Victorian lace is used to embellish everything...from under garments to

outer garments to such mundane articles as egg holders. The history and

patterns are interesting and almost everything can be re-worked for use

today.

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The Weaver's Draft Book and Clothiers Assistant

A Facsimile Reproduction of the Original Edition

Piper Publishing, publisher 2002

The introduction by Caroline F. Sloat, Director of Scholarly Programs at

American Antiquarian Society, is as interesting as the actual patterns that

follow. The preface, by John Hargrove, Hartford County, MD 24th June 1792,

is a bit of historical weaving needing interpretation. That's neatly done by

Rita J. Adrosko in the chapter "Hargrove's Patterns in Contemporary

Context". Ms Adrosko is the Curator Emerita Textiles Collection at the

National Museum of American History. She's also the author of Natural Dyes

and Home Dyeing A Practical Guide with over 150 Recipes by Dover Press,

1968. Natural Dyes and Home Dyeing is also an invaluable addition to one's

fiber library.

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The Workwoman's Guide

By A Lady

Piper Publishing, publisher 2002

A Guide to 19th Century Decorative Arts,

Fashion and Practical Crafts is the "big workbook" of its time. From the foreword, "...The book is appropriately titled, for it is not a handbook of fancywork patters {sic} for ladies of leisure, but a comprehensive instructional text particularly designed for Clergymen's Wives, Young Married Women,

School-Mistresses, and Ladies' Maids," as well as gentlewomen who wished to

aid the poor and run their own households with efficiency and economy."

Information and patterns include clothing for men, women and children.

Infants' napkins (diapers), burial shrouds and household textiles including

bed hanging, window draperies and kitchen items such as jelly bags and

scouring flannels are included. The Workwoman's Guide relies on the written

word, not diagrams nor charts, for patterns but those patterns are clear

when one takes time to decipher them.

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Single Crochet for Beginners

by Cindy Crandall-Frazier

Krause Publications, Publisher

$22.99. A very beginner friendly book that takes one stitch, the single crochet, and teaches how to alter the fabric made from this simple and most practical stitch. A very interesting section on crochet hooks reveals the very different styles available, and why a reader might prefer a hook with a more pointed head, for example, as opposed to a blunt one. Still another interesting section features the technique for working back and forth in the round to create a fabric that can match an article worked flat in the usual back and forth stitchery of crochet. More than thirty projects are included, with step-by-step instructions, and there is a quick facts guide to color and fiber to help with future projects.

I have been crocheting for more years than I care to remember, but I found several new hints and techniques in this book, even though it is geared toward the beginning crocheter. I also had the pleasure of meeting the author recently and admire her enthusiasm for crochet and look forward to seeing more of her and her work!

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