Fits women’s sizes 7 – 10

Judy Jacobs Ball and Skein Sock yarn 1 skein “Periwinkle”

Size D crochet hook

Markers

Gauge: 7 rows of single crochet = 1”

7 single crochet stitches = 1”

Note:

The gauge depends on how the toe of the sock fits your foot. If it is too tight, use a larger hook, if too small, use a smaller one. Check the fit of the sock as you crochet. Change hook size if necessary.

You will work thru both loops.

Cast on 10 chains.

Round 1: sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc across row to last ch, 3 scs in last ch, sc in next sc (working in bottom of ch), sc across row to last sc, 2 sc in last sc (20 sc)

Place marker in last sc. This will be the indicator for one side of the sock as well as indicator for end of rounds.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in 10^th sc (this will be the opposite side of sock – you may add a marker to this side – remembering the original marker indicates the end of the rounds) sc in next 9 sc (22 sc)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc

Rnd 4: 2 sc in first sc after marker, 1 sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in same sc as side marker, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in last sc of this round. Move markers to the sc between the 2-sc increase on each side (26 sc)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around

Rnd 6: 2-sc increase in the sc between the 2-sc of rnd 4. (Markers should be in the 1^st sc of the 2-sc inc) (28)

Rnd 7: sc in increases from previous round, 2 sc inc in 3^rd sc, 1 sc in next, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc across rnd, 2 sc in 11^th

Rnd 8: sc around (34 sc)

Rnd 9: 2 sc in marked sc (at edge of foot) 15 sc, 2 sc in next sc (opposite edge of the foot) (36 sc)

Rnd 10: sc in each sc around

Rnd 11: 2 sc in sc before marker, sc in marked sc, 2 sc after marker, sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc, 1 sc, 2 sc, sc across to the marker (38 sc)

Rnd 12: sc in each sc around (38 st)

Make sure the markers are at each side of the toe.

Begin sole and top (forget-me-not) patterns – you will alternate rows (for the soles) and rounds (for the soles and the forget-me-not stitch across the top) You are crocheting the soles in sc and the tops in double the forget-me-not stitch simultaneously.

Row 1: Sc across 19 sc, ch 1, turn

Row 2: repeat row 1

Rnd 3: do not turn work, begin forget-me-not on next 19 stitches that were not crocheted in rows 1 and 2. Work 2 dc, ch-2, 1 sc in 1^st sc. *skip next 2 stitches and work 2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc in the following stitch* repeat across the row to the sole. Sc across the next 19 scs (sole)

Row 4: ch 1, turn work, sc across 19 sc (ignoring the forget-me-not pattern).

Row 5: same as row 4

Rnd 6: same as row 4 until you reach end of row then follow forget-me-not pattern:* 2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc in ch 2 space * repeat between *s across row to the sole of single crochet.

Rows 7, 8, 9, repeat row 4

Rnd 10: repeat rnd 6.

Continue in this sequence til the sock is 9” long. Check the sock for fit. The sock should stop before your heel. If necessary, repeat Rows 7,8,9,10 sequence one more time.

At the end of the row 10, chain 34 (do not twist the chain) and skip the sole single crochets. Slip stitch in the first dc of the forget-me-not pattern. Turn work. Place marker

Leg:

From now on, you will turn your work after each row at the marker. This keeps the forget-me-not stitch in its correct sequence.

Rows 1 and 2 (basic forget-me-not pattern): You will work a forget-me-not pattern (2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc) in every 3^rd chain stitch (there should be 11 forget-me-not patterns) then continue in the forget me not stitch pattern across the top of the sock. When you reach the marker (after effectively working in the round), you will sl st in the top of the 1^st dc of the forget-me-not pattern after the marker, turn your work and repeat the forget-me-not stitch around the sock. When you reach the marker, again, you slip stitch in the top of the 1^st dc of the previous row, turn your work and repeat the pattern. This is the basic pattern you will follow for the remainder of the leg.

Row 3: at the corners of the chain (marker at one “corner” matches the unmarked 2^nd “corner”), instead of working the full forget-me-not stitch, work 1 dc, 1 sc. Continue in the forget-me-not pattern to the 2^nd corner and work 1 dc, 1 sc instead of the full forget-me-not. Turn your work when you reach the end of this row as usual.

Row 4: Work the basic forget-me-not pattern except at the 1 dc, 1 sc patterns, work a hdc between the 1 dc, 1 sc.

Row 5: Work the basic around, skipping the hdc (thereby decreasing a forget-me-not pattern in both “corners” of the sock.

Repeat the basic forget-me-not stitch 3 more times. Try on sock. You may need to decrease a forget-me-not stitch. To do so, find the middle of the back of the sock. Mark this forget-me-not stitch and remove it following Rows 3, 4 and 5. Work 2 rows of the basic forget-me-not pattern. If you need to decrease more, repeat decrease sequence, again finding the middle of the back of the sock.

Repeat the basic forget-me-not stitch til the socks are the height you prefer.

Edging: Sc in the ch-2 of the first forget-me-not stitch,

* (tr, ch 1) 7 times in the next ch-2. Sc in the next ch-2.* around. Sl st on top of the 1^st sc.

Bind off.

Return to the heel to finish the sock.

(Thanks for Linda Diak for her afterthought heel concept)

Heel:

You will work only in the sc pattern on the sole. Attach yarn in a corner of the heel. Single crochet across the sole, and in the bottom of each forget-me-not stitch as well as in each ch-2 between the forget-me-not stitches. Sl st at the top of the first sc. At each corner, decrease 2 stitches (you will decrease 4 stitches in each round) for 5 rows. Try on the sock periodically to check the fit of the heel. The last rows, decrease 1 stitch in each corner til you have only an inch or so left. Cut off the yarn leaving 8” tail. Weave the yarn in and out of the last stitches.

Copyright 2007 Cathy Adair-Clark